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Bevel Siding
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Bevel Siding & Clapboard Installations
Figure A
The minimum lap for bevel siding
should not be less than 1 inch.
The average exposure distance is
usually determined by the distance
from the underside of the window
sill to the top of the drip cap.
From the standpoint of weather resistance
and appearance, the butt edge of
the first course of siding should
coincide with the top of the window
drip cap. In many one-story houses
with an overhang, this course of
siding is often replaced with a
frieze board.
It is also desirable that the bottom
of a siding course be flush with
the underside of the window sill.
However, this may not always be
possible because of varying window
heights and types that might be
used in a house.
One system to determine the siding
exposure width so that it is about
equal above and below is described
as follows:
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Divide the overall height of
the window frame by the approximate
recommended exposure distance for
the siding used (four inches for
six-inch-wide siding, 6 for 8-inch
siding, 8 for 10-inch siding, and
10 for 12-inch
siding).
This will result in the number
of courses between the top and the bottom
of the window. For example, the overall
height of our sample window from the top
of the drip cap to the bottom of the sill
is 61 inches. If 12-inch siding is used,
the number of courses would be 61/10
= 6.1, or six courses. To obtain the exact
exposure distance, divide 61 by 6 and the result
would be 10 1/6 inches.
The next step is to determine the exposure
distance from the bottom of the window sill to
just below the top of the foundation wall. If
this is 31 inches, three courses of 10 1/3 inches
each would be used. Thus, the exposure distance
above and below the window would be almost
the same.
When this system is not satisfactory because of
significant differences in the two areas, it is
preferable to use an equal exposure distance for
the entire wall height and notch the siding at the
window sill. The fit should be tight to prevent
moisture entry.
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Siding may be installed starting with the bottom course.
It is normally blocked out with a starting strip the same
thickness as the top of the siding board (See Figure A above).
Each succeeding course overlaps the upper edge of the lower course. Siding should be nailed to each stud or on 16-inch centers.
When
plywood or wood sheathing or spaced wood nailing strips are used on
non-wood sheathing, seven penny or eight penny nails (2 1/4 and
2 1/2 in. long) may be used for 3/4-inch lapped siding thickness.
However, if gypsum or fiberboard sheathing is used, the ten-penny
nail is recommended to penetrate the stud.
The nails should be located far enough up from the butt to miss
the top of the lower course of siding. This clearance distance is
usually 1/8-inch. This allows for slight movement of the siding due
to moisture changes without causing splitting. Such an allowance is
especially required for the wider sidings of 8 to 12 inches wide.
It is usually good practice to avoid butt joints whenever
possible. Use the longer sections of siding under windows and other
long stretches and use the shorter lengths for areas between windows
and doors. If unavoidable, butt joints should be made over a stud
and staggered between courses as much as practical.
Siding should be square-cut to provide a good joint at window and
door casings and at butt joints. Open joints permit moisture to enter,
often leading to paint deterioration. It is good practice to brush or
dip fresh-cut ends of the siding in a water-repellent preservative
before boards are nailed in place.
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Bevel Siding Conversion Factors |
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Nominal Width |
Actual Finished Width |
Net Reveal
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Conversion Factor
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100 square ft Conversion
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4" |
3-1/2" |
2-1/2" |
.208 |
480
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LF |
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6" |
5-1/2" |
4-1/2" |
.375 |
267 |
LF |
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8" |
7-1/4" |
6-1/4" |
.521 |
192 |
LF |
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10" |
8-7/8" |
7-1/2"
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.625 |
160 |
LF |
* 1" Minimum lap recommended on boards up to 8"
wide and 1-1/4" on 10" nominal boards |
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