Finishing Your Beautiful Hardwood Floor

Since you have established a near-occupied environment prior to installation, it is recommended that unfinished flooring be allowed to acclimate 1 to 3 days before proceeding with sanding and finishing operations. This acclimation allows the flooring to react and move as the environment dictates so that imperfections can be sanded, filled, and finished to give the finest appearance. Longer periods of exposure to job site abuse and moisture can result in future problems. After finishing is completed, temperature and humidity should continue to be maintained at occupancy levels.

Applying the finish to the solid wood floor should be one of the last jobs of any construction project in new construction. This prevents the traffic of workmen from marring the finish. Wall coverings should be in place and painting completed except for a final coat on the baseboard and door casings.

An orbital or vibrating flooring sander is recommended for our hardwood flooring. DO NOT USE A DRUM OR BELT SANDER which is entirely too harsh for our finely milled planks. You will need the appropriate sanding pads and sheets in ranging between 60 to 180 grit finish screens.

Generally, filling of nail holes, blemishes, cracks, etc., should be done before the fine sanding cut. Use a commercially prepared non-shrinking wood flooring filler. Some fillers may need coloring or may not take a bleaching operation; check with the supplier or manufacturer. Choose a color several shades deeper than the darkest tone of your wood floor. This process will require a 2" to 3" putty knife.

Starting with the 60-grit sanding sheet, start in a far corner and move the sander in the same direction as the grain. Overlap strokes until the entire floor is sanded and uniform. You may need to use a small orbital hand sander along the edges. Vacuum the entire floor and repeat the process with the 100 or 120 grit sanding sheet. Vacuum again and repeat the final sanding with the 150 or 180 fine grit screen.

Allow ample time with the sanding procedure to also apply the first coat of stain or other finish on the same day that sanding is completed. This prevents the unprotected grain from raising which creates a rough surface. When machine and hand sanding are completed thoroughly sweep and vacuum the floor. Wipe up and/or vacuum all dust on windows, sills, doors, door frames, and baseboards.

IMPORTANT: Read the entire label before starting the finishing process. Compatibility questions between different materials should be referred to the finish manufacturer. Always follow ALL of the manufacturer's safety precautions, especially for skin contact, ventilation, breathing apparatus, fire hazards and disposal.

Water-based polyurethanes remain clear. If you want to preserve the creamy-white look of maple, for instance, use waterborne polyurethane. Another advantage of waterborne polyurethane is how quickly it dries — you can apply two coats in three hours and walk on the floor in your socks after seven hours. However, because it dries quickly, you must work fast to maintain a "wet edge" during application or you'll end up with visible lap marks where wet polyurethane was applied over dried or partially dried finish. And you can't go back and work waterborne polyurethane, even when it's wet, or you'll leave marks in the finish. You can also use waterborne urethane finishes with great results, but the color and depth you get are no match for oil-based urethanes.

Oil-Based Polyurethane

As for durability, oil-based polyurethane is still the standard for performance, especially for high-traffic areas. Oil Based Polyurethane will turn a light amber color with age. It dries slowly, which means you can't walk on the finished area for 24 hours or more after coating an it emits noxious fumes. But, it can be worked when wet, which means you can go back and correct mistakes — a crucial advantage for the beginner.

If using a satin or semi-gloss polyurethane finish, make sure to gently and thoroughly stir the contents with a gentle lifting motion throughout the entire finishing process. Never shake or mix to create bubbles. Flattening agents are heavier than the finish and tend to fall to to bottom of the container. If you fail to maintain a proper blend, your floor may reflect intermixed glossy areas.

1. Your floor should already be sanded and vacuumed clean as instructed above. Use a cabinetmakers tack cloth orcheesecloth moistened with denatured alcohol to fully tack clean the entire floor surface.

2. Apply the first finish coat with the proper applicator and high quality brush. (click here for detailed instructions). Allow to thoroughly dry. Remember to provide adequate ventilation and always following the finish manufacturer’s instructions.

3. After the first coat has fully cured, lightly sand the entire floor with a flooring sander using 100 to 120 grit sandpaper. Use an orbital palm sander in corners and along edges.

4. Thoroughly Vacuum & tack clean the entire floor and tack clean.

5. Apply the 2nd finish coat- according to the finish manufacturers directions. Allow to fully dry. You may stop the finishing process at this point or continue with an optional but recommended third and final coat for added protection.

6. If a third coat is desired, again, with the floor sander, lightly sand the entire floor using a 150 to 180 grit sandpaper or finish screen. Use a palm or hand orbital sander to reach corners and edges.

7. Again, thoroughly Vacuum & tack clean the entire floor a final time.

8. Apply the 3rd and final topcoat. Allow to thoroughly cure-usually 24 hours or as recommended by the finish manufacturer’s instructions. Don't sand the final coat — just appreciate how it reflects the light and know that you have a finish that will last for years.

This sealer soaks into the wood pores and hardens to seal the floor. It wears only as the wood wears, will not chip or scratch and is generally maintained by thin applications of wax. This type of finish is not compatible with a Polyurethanes finish.

After years of wear the floor can usually be restored without sanding by cleaning it and applying another coat of sealer or a special reconditioning product. Worn areas can usually be refinished without showing lap marks when new finish is applied over the old.

With a surface finished system, one coat of sealer generally followed by two coats of the surface application produce satisfactory results. IT IS IMPORTANT TO USE COMPATIBLE PRODUCTS AND ALWAYS FOLLOW THE FINISH MANUFACTURER'S DIRECTIONS.

Staining is the first step in the finishing process if other than a natural finish is desired. The oil stain with a penetrating sealer in combination is generally easiest to apply and accomplishes two things, coloring and sealing, in one application. Stain only (without sealers) requires more care with the application in order to avoid uneven coloration and lap marks. A stain only generally requires 8 hours or less to dry (Read directions). The combination products (stain and sealer) require at least overnight or up to 48+ hours to dry in stagnant, damp, or humid conditions.

Homemade Danish Oil:
Yield Approximately 1 Gallon

9 Cups (72 oz) Mineral Spirits
6 Cups (48 oz) Brushing Varnish
(clear or in a color of your choice)
1.5 Cups (12 oz) Boiled Linseed

Mix the above items in a 1-gallon or larger container.

With a sealer/wax system, most manufacturers recommend two coats of a penetrating sealer, then wax. A reconditioning product is generally available for use when traffic or other conditions cause discoloration or wear of the finish. These reconditioning products restore the floor finish to its original appearance without the need for sanding. This type of finish is not compatible with a Polyurethanes finish.

Immediately after sanding is completed the finishing process should begin. This process involves applying a protective coating; a clear finish or color, if desired, to the flooring.

Finishing produces a uniformly enhanced surface and depending on the finish, seals the wood to make it less absorbent or entirely sealed from from moisture and foreign materials.

A stain or penetrating sealer can be applied by hand wiping with rags, by brushing, or with an applicator.

With an oil-based finish, use a natural bristle brush for edges and corners and a lamb's-wool applicator for the open floor.

With a water-based finish, use a painting pad to reach edges and corners, and a synthetic-wool applicator for the open floor.

Use a paint brush to apply to flooring at wall lines. If your mouldings are already in place, "Cut in" about 2" or 3" from walls to avoid smearing.

Start the application in one corner along one edge of the room and move with the direction of the flooring. As you apply the finish, move the applicator with the grain of the wood from wall to wall, angling it slightly. Distribute the finish evenly over the entire plank run, do not leave puddles or a heavy excess on the surface. Continue to maintain a "wet edge" and make sure not to finish yourself into a corner.

If you are apply a color or stain, the length of time the stain is allowed to remain on the floor, to some extent, will determine the degree of color tone. Use clean rags and wipe up the excess material left on the surface of the flooring. Repeat the application and wiping process, working parallel to the stained area across the room. Be sure to overlap by one strip into previously stained area and wipe the overlap well or else an area that appears darker (a lap mark) can result.